Nonetheless,
it was a success, and today Madrid is a vast, predominantly modern city,
with a population of some three million and growing. The journey in -
through a stream of concrete-block suburbs - isn't pretty, but the
streets at the heart of the city are a pleasant surprise, with pockets
of medieval buildings and narrow, atmospheric alleys, dotted with the
oddest of shops and bars, and interspersed with eighteenth-century
Bourbon squares. By comparison with the historic cities of Spain -
Toledo, Salamanca, Sevilla, Granada - there may be few sights of great
architectural interest, but the monarchs did acquire outstanding picture
collections, which formed the basis of the Prado museum. This has long
ensured Madrid a place on the European art tour, and the more so since
the 1990s arrival - literally down the street - of the Reina Sofía and
Thyssen-Bornemisza galleries, state-of-the-art homes to fabulous arrays
of modern Spanish painting (including Picasso's Guernica ) and European
and American masters.
As you get to grips with the place you soon realize that it's the
inhabitants - the madrileños - that are the capital's key attraction:
hanging out in the traditional cafés or the summer terrazas, packing the
lanes of the Sunday Rastro flea market, or playing hard and very, very
late in a thousand bars , clubs, discos and tascas . Whatever Barcelona
or San Sebastián might claim, the Madrid scene, immortalized in the
movies of Pedro Almodóvar, remains the most vibrant and fun in the
country. The city is also in better shape than for many years past,
after a £500-million refurbishment for its role as 1992 European Capital
of Culture and the ongoing impact of a series of urban rehabilitation
schemes - funded jointly by the European Union and local government - in
the older barrios (districts) of the city. Improvements are also being
made to the transport network, with extensions to the metro, the
construction of new ring roads and the excavation of a series of road
tunnels designed to bring relief to the city's overcrowded streets. The
authorities are even preparing a bid for the 2012 Olympics. |